The time has come for that dreaded time again… a holiday… So armed with my knives, frying pan, and an empty stomach we head to one of my favourite seaside villages in Greece, Pylos. Situated on the western side of the Peloponnesos, the little village commands beautiful views of the Bay of Pylos, the site of two famous naval battles. The Battle of Pylos was in 425BC, in which the Athenians had a decisive victory over the Spartans during the Peloponnesian wars. The second was the last major sea battle to be fought with sailing ships. The Battle of Navarino was a dramatic sea battle in 1827 during the Greek war of independence. When the guns fell silent it saw the complete destruction of the entire Ottoman fleet, leading eventually to Greek freedom five years later.
Although steeped in history, nowadays Pylos is a peaceful village with great tavernas, coffee shops, and of course the local fish monger. It is a culinary haven with fresh local produce, raisins and wines from local vines. But what I enjoy the most is the ever-present sea, yielding its fruits each morning in little whitewashed wooden boats. So over the next week I plan on slicing and dicing my way to a better understanding of local Greek village food.